Speaker Stands - May 12th, 2005
What You'll Need
  • Wood (3 1/2" x 3/4" x 20' and 11" x 3/4" x 4')
  • Wood Screws (at least 1 1/4" long)
  • Tape Measure
  • Wood Finish
  • Polyurethane
  • Sandpaper
  • Sanding Block
  • Drill
  • Screwdriver
  • Mitre Box w/ Saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Square/Straight Edge
  • Scribe
  • 2 Mousepads
  • 8 Felt Pad Floor Protectors
Why am I making speaker stands?

That's a fair enough question. And I'll tell you why. Because you can't buy good speaker/monitor stands for less than $100. Maybe I'm the only one who thinks that it's ridiculous to pay that much for stands, but I doubt it.

This tutorial is for the design that you can see here. There are many ways to build speaker stands, but this was the design that popped into my head so I went for it. I didn't want these stands to look like I just used some random shelf to hold my speakers.
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Step 1:
We'll start with the legs of the stand. I measured off 30" because I wanted the stand to be about 31" overall. And remember the common rule: Measure twice, cut once!

It's important to get the edges of the legs as straight as possible, so I'd suggest using a mitre box. Once you've made your measurements, clamp that sucker in and get to sawing.

Wood Prep: I didn't do this because I didn't have time. But, the wood I bought from Lowe's had some markings on it. The markings will be slightly masked when you stain the wood, but if you want them gone then you should sand them out before staining them.




Step 2:
Next, we'll tackle the top and bottom of the stand. The wood that I bought is 11" wide; I'm going to cut the length to 12" to make it a little longer than it is wider so that it's a better fit for my monitors.

I didn't have any clamps at the time, so I had to improvise. Also, I strategically placed the trash can under where I'd be cutting so that the debris wouldn't get on the floor.

Commence cutting! Take it nice and steady. You still want a nice straight cut here.
Step 3:
Now that we're all done with the cutting, let's smooth off the edges with some sandpaper.

The sanding block isn't required, but it doesn't cost much and makes the job a lot easier.




Step 4:
Now we have all of the wood cut to length and smoothed down. We're over the steepest part of the hill, but we're still not homefree yet.

I'm not going to go into extraneous details about how I measured to attach the legs to the tops and bottoms. Partly because I'm sure there was a much more efficient way to do it.

Things would've been a lot easier if the tops and bottoms were perfectly square. But they weren't. And, you know, sometimes things in life aren't perfectly square. So, we do the best we can with what we've got.
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